Serging Ahead

Above: my first serging experiments!

So I've been looking for a serger workshop but had trouble finding one that fits in my schedule; inevitably I'd miss classes because of Urban Tapestry practices or Balticon or other commitments.

But I did sign up for a beginners' sewing workshop at Sew Be It workshops studios, and supposedly we get some practice working with a serger. Each student is supposed to bring a pattern and fabric.



The course isn't until next month, however, and there was no way I could ignore my new serger until then. So I took out the manual and sat in front of my new Janome 9102D, then went through the diagram of all the parts to make sure I knew where everything was.

I also bought Quick and Easy Sewing With Your Serger by Becky Hanson. The Internet is a wealth of info, but I was getting frustrated trying to sort through all the advertisements for various sergers and serger companies as well as advanced technical serger details -- I was looking for a very basic serger primer. As the Internet continues to grow, of course, this sort of problem is only going to get worse -- the challenge of sorting through all the info to find what you want.

Anyway, I found the book gave a good overview of serger basics as well as listing some easy projects. I've also ordered The Complete Serger Handbook by Chris James.

After I figured out what all the parts were for and where they were, I used my Canon PowerShot to take some macro shots of the settings and threading. Yes, the manual has drawings but I wanted some real-life photos as well, for the inevitable day when I'll have to re-thread the serger myself.




I had never even seen a serger being used before, so I also browsed YouTube for videos. Finally I had done all the prep and procrastination I figured I needed, and actually turned my new serger ON (*gasp).

Once I started serging on some scraps, I noticed immediately that there's a LOT more going on than a regular sewing machine. More parts moving, knives cutting, threads being pulled this way and that. But overall, it wasn't nearly as scary as I thought it would be.

My confidence bolstered, I even experimented with changing the thread tension, stitch lengths, and differential feed ratios. I've also figured out how to disengage the upper cutting knife for times when I don't want the edges trimmed.

So far, I think the initial main challenges are going to be:

- Figuring out how to cut/sew accurately. The serger cuts as it sews (I tried NOT cutting as I sewed and it's not nearly as even-looking) so I'll have to be really careful about not cutting off material I shouldn't! Once the material's cut, it's cut. Plus unlike a regular sewing machine, there's no reverse function. Going around corners is also going to be interesting, I can tell.

- Figuring out to properly start and end seams. I need to get some liquid seam sealant plus learn how to tuck the ends in under the stitches.

- Figuring out what thread tension, stitch length and differential feed ratio to use for different types of stitches. There are tips in the user manual, but I'd like to NOT have to look this up each time.

But the main thing I'm nervous about is RE-THREADING. That looks pretty scary, what with four threads and a zillion (ok, maybe slight exaggeration) places you have to tuck each thread around and into and behind, differently for each thread. I'm going to use the recommended trick of tying an old thread to the thread of a new spool, of course, but inevitably I'll have to re-thread someday. But I'll deal with that when I come to it. :-)

Overall, though, I'm EXCITED! The more I research, the more I realize that the serger can really help my sewing projects look more professional, plus opens up the range of possibilities for types of projects.

Finished another tank top last night (nice soft blue material) and am starting a t-shirt with SLEEVES today. Sleeves scare me, but not as much as threading a serger.



I've started doing weekly Cartoon Caption Challenges in the BoardGameGeek.com's game-related comics forum, if you're interested. The comic above is the result of last week's challenge. I posted another challenge today. Feel free to post your suggestion in that forum; the answer that gets the most votes ("thumbs up") from other users wins.

Babylon Five Virgin update

SPOILER WARNING: The blog below focuses on my reports while watching Babylon Five for the first time. An LJ feed is also available. If you haven't seen B5 yet and don't want spoilers, please DO NOT click below.

Episode 52: Messages from Earth (1)
Episode 53: Point of No Return (2)



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Sergers and media survey

Jeff and I decided to pick up my serger last night after dinner at Cafe Pleiade. Cafe Pleiade has become one of our favourite restaurants in the city. The food is always excellent in this small restaurant and this time we chatted a bit with our server (the chef's wife, I believe) about the art hanging on the walls.

I ordered my favourite: Pear & Brie salad along with the pork roast dinner. Heavenly. Jeff's favourite is the Chicken Supreme with apricots.



After dinner, we went out to the Fabricland at Eglinton and Victoria Park. I told them I was there to pick up my serger, and one of the women went into the back to look for it. As I signed the paperwork, they congratulated me and asked me if I was a sewer.

When I told them I'd been sewing for just over a week, they started laughing. I choose to interpret this laugh as a "How ironic but wonderful" laugh and not a "This serger's going to cut you into little pieces, you poor thing" laugh. :-) Anyway, I should have pointed out that I've had my sewing machine a whole MONTH even though I only actually started my first sewing project last week.



Wow...the instruction book is definitely bigger and more complicated than the booklet for my new sewing machine. There are TEN PAGES, for example, just for the explanation of the THREADING PROCESS! Yikes. I haven't tried it yet; with all the warnings about the knives and needles, I figure I should probably familiarize myself with the whole manual before plunging in.

An instructional video came with the machine, but it's in VHS format and we don't own a VCR anymore. However, I did find a bunch of YouTube videos about how to use a serger, plus I think I might also sign up for a one-day course. Fabricland doesn't offer any, but I've found others.

I was relieved that the serger wasn't as big as I feared. Look, it actually does fit in my craft corner, right beside my sewing machine:



I'm going to sew a cover for it since it didn't come with one.

Finished another top yesterday: a black tank top this time. I solved the bunching hem problem by doing a baste stitch around the lower edge then "easing" the fabric a bit before folding the hem up. Plus it helped to be more diligent about pressing EVERYTHING throughout.

I feel confident enough with the tank tops that I decided to get some new patterns:



Upcoming projects include a more casual skirt (with an elastic waist instead of a zipper), a couple of dresses, a t-shirt (with SLEEVES!!!), casual pants (elastic waist, to wear at home while I'm working) and some bags. I love the idea of making some bags but adding some wonkiness to them somehow, maybe with fabric paint or some of my nightmare creatures, for instance. Plus Jeff's asked if I'd make him a messenger bag.



Plus I couldn't resist picking up some fabric from the remnant bin. I've found this a GREAT place to get fabric to practice on.

Thanks for the heads-up re: Dr. Who. It looks as if I skipped more than an entire season when we watched "Blink"! Several of you suggested I watch Torchwood. I actually did watch the first season of Torchwood and quite enjoyed it; I haven't had a chance to watch anymore.

Not having cable tv, Jeff and I only watch shows we're able to buy or borrow. Babylon Five has taken up most of our media-watching time lately; one of the reasons we gave up cable tv is to limit our couch potato time, so we're trying to be careful not to slip into our old habits -- what would be the point of giving up cable tv if we spend just as much time sitting in front of a tv screen, after all? :-)

It's been especially hard to resist the ongoing lure of Babylon Five, which just seems to be getting better and better!

Anyway, we have quite a queue of shows to watch, it seems: Babylon Five (of course), Dr. Who (I'm more interested than Jeff), Battlestar Galactica, Lost, Blood Ties, and more...if the frequency of my B5 reports slows down, that's why. These days we tend to watch 4-5 hours of entertainment media a week on average (including the occasional movie) - sometimes less, sometimes more. What about the rest of you? I'm curious.




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Hey, I Won A Serger! (what's a serger?)

So during my first visit to Fabricland (fabric outlet with stores across Canada) to buy supplies for my first sewing project, I noticed a box and ballot forms on the front counter. I didn't pay much attention to what the prize was but I figured it had to be good, so I filled one out while the clerk was ringing through my purchase.

Anyway, Fabricland called yesterday. I won a Janome Model 9102D Serger! WOOHOO!!! I was so excited, and told the woman that I never win anything! What I was tempted to ask but didn't: "What's a serger?"



Here's a Googled description I found from a store that sold the same model: "The 9102D is our most advanced MyLock serger, with speeds up to 1300 stitches per minute. The 9102D has 2 needles and 3 or 4 thread stitching capabilities. Equipped with differential feed, which is adjustable from .05 to 2.25 mm, the 9102D provides increased control for handling all types of fabrics and is essential for creative serger techniques. Features include adjustable cutting knife up to 7.3 mm, upper knife release and electronic foot control for precise speed control, also included is an instructional video that will help you get started quickly and get professional results in no time."

Whoa. And I thought computer techspeak was unintelligible.

I called Ginny and Luisa immediately (I've been talking to both about sewing), to proudly announce that I had won a serger and to ask what it was. They were both highly amused that I was going to be a serger owner after having sewn for just over a week. :-)



Thanks also to those who responded to my question on Livejournal. Apparently a serger finishes off edges with an overlocking stitch (no, I don't know what this is, either :-) to keep them from fraying, and is apparently mandatory for professional production-work sewing. It can also do decorative seaming and some other interesting stuff.

Here's the Wikipedia entry on the Overlock/Serger (apparently another word for serger is "overlock"), along with images of sample overlock stitches.

Anyway, Jeff and I are picking up my new serger tomorrow! I realize that it may be a little while before I'm using it; I should probably become better acquainted with my sewing machine first. But I've already found a one day serger workshop in Toronto, so I may sign up for that.

Serging ahead...

On Dr. Who

Jeff and I saw the "Blink" episode and LOVED it. However, it became clear to me partway through the episode that I've missed a bunch of episodes somehow ("Where's Rose?!?"). The last episode I saw was "Age Of Steel" in the second season.

On aging

I enjoyed reading your comments in response to my last post. A few excerpts...

From scs-11:

"Every time I think I'm getting used to the changes since I turned 50, something else comes along and slaps me upside the head. The most recent was seeing a photo of a friend and thinking "who's the greybeard with Giza?" Damn, it was me! It doesn't help working in an office where I'm the oldest by about 20 years. Don't get me wrong, the office folks are great - and I'd much rather be around them than a bunch of old guys. :-) But a few months back I was at a co-workers party and someone asked if I was his father. Harrumph! Get offa my lawn, ya damned hippie punk.

On the other hand, I did get invited to drive down to Louisville to party in someone's dorm and had to inform her I was babysitting my granddaughter that day. She was reportedly redder than I am gray."

From mdlbear:

"Not too happy about getting old, either, but it beats the alternative."



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Zipper feet, sewing and B5

Feeling much better today, probably because I slept most of yesterday.

Since Ginny gave me my first sewing lesson last weekend, I've been spending most evenings sewing. Obsessed? Not me. Last night I dreamed about interfacing.

As I mentioned before, one of the ways I've been learning sewing is to pick a simple pattern (summer tank top) and sewing it over and over, with different fabrics. Fabricland had a mega-sale recently, so I picked up a bunch of material to experiment with. I'm glad I'm working with inexpensive fabric right now; I made so many mistakes with my first top that I ended up scrapping it.

Attempt #2 is the orange one at the right in the photo above. It doesn't fit all that well, mainly because of the darts. I'll wear this one out in the garden or while painting, I think.

Attempt #3 is the red one on the left. It fits perfectly, but I cut the fabric out upside down (note the upside-down skulls). The skulls are subtle enough that I'll still wear this top in public. Maybe people will think I'm making a statement of some kind. :-) And as Allison's husband pointed out, the skulls look right to ME, at least, when I'm wearing the top.

Attempt #4 is the blue floral one in the middle. The fabric is my favourite, but the fit is too small. :-( I'm giving it to my sister in hopes that it fits her.

I'm currently working on Tank Top Attempts #5 and #6; they're finished except for the bottom hem, and fit well. The hem is a challenge, though, because the material I chose is so thin that the hem keeps bunching up whenever I try sewing it, argh.



In the process of making all those tops this past week, however, I've been learning a lot, plus finetuning the pattern. I've nixed the darts and found I prefer the neckline on the back piece to that of the front piece -- so I've made a new pattern based on the back piece, and use that for the front AND the back. No darts, plus I've modified the shape. It's a much simpler pattern than the original, and fits me way better.



Also made my first skirt! The pattern (Butterick B4136) has a deceptive "Fast and Easy" description, but I discovered (after I bought it) that the skirt needed a zipper. Augh, zippers! I briefly considered leaving it until sometime in the future but then thought hey, why not give it a shot.

After I cut out the pieces, I used some of the leftover material to practice making zippers. The skirt required a hidden zipper, the kind where one flap of material covers the zipper itself.

I also had to teach myself how to change the regular sewing foot on my machine to a zipper foot, as well as figure out what a zipper foot was, and how to use it. The machine instruction booklet came in very handy, and everything worked out okay. I'm growing more and more comfortable with my new sewing machine. I'm even able to take apart some of the metals bits down in the gear-thingy section (my terminology sucks, I know) when thread gets tangled in there, AND put it all back together again.

Go, me! :-)



Anyway, I actually did manage to install the zipper okay, though I ended up improvising the finishing part (how it looks from the outside) since that bit wasn't in the pattern directions -- I guess it's assumed that the person making the skirt would already know how to properly finish putting in a zipper. I didn't, so my zipper section's pretty nasty-looking; I'll work on improving that in future skirts.

But hey, the skirt fits! Well enough that I'd wear this in public, even; unless someone bends over to inspect my butt, chances are low that the nasty zipper will be noticed much. Meanwhile, I'm going to find more fabric and keep practising this pattern; hopefully in the process, I'll get better with zippers and whatnot. I'm finding that actual act of sewing is relatively easy compared to the whatnot. :-)

Babylon Five Virgin Update:

SPOILER WARNING: The blog posts below focuses on my reports while watching Babylon Five for the first time. An LJ feed is also available. If you haven't seen B5 yet and don't want spoilers, please DO NOT click the links below.

Season 3, Episode 49: Voices of Authority
Season 3, Episode 50: Dust to Dust
Season 3, Episode 51: Exogenesis



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Will Write For Chocolate

Yay for spring! I was getting SO TIRED of snow. Jeff did a ton of work out in the garden yesterday after work and filled eleven (11!) big leaf bags for collection this morning. Looks like the ice will be going out on Canoe Lake any day now. Looks like my prediction of May 4th in the annual ice-out poll is going to be way off.



I made the cute little handbag above on my sewing machine last night; I got the pattern from Sew Everything Workshop by Diana Rupp. I used some of the fabric I bought at FilKONtario.

Anyway, I'm going to modify the pattern to make the bag deeper and with a longer handle that I can sling over my shoulder; I'm not really the 'cute little handbag' type, but wanted to try the pattern to see how it worked.

It was SUPER easy even though it required lining, and was so fun to do that I may eventually make some more to sell in my Etsy shop. The project requires something called a French seam, which sounds a lot more complicated than it is. You use it for the bottom of the bag, and basically requires you to turn the bag inside out twice, sewing the bottom seam each time. The second sewing hides the first seam. Very cool technique.

Of course, I still managed to sew the lining on the wrong side of the fabric the first time and had to unpick all the sewing, but at least I'm getting faster with the seam ripper after all this experience. :-)

Using my fancypants GPS-enabled pedomeer, I found out that the walk to and from our neighbourhood sewing supplies shop is about 4.6 km. It's one of my regular walks; not only is it good exercise, but it gives me an excuse to ogle sewing stuff. Yesterday I bought a snap fastener for the handbag; I'll be sewing that on tonight.



Above: one of my mom-in-law's cats after a particularly exhausting session on the Wii.

Getting together with Allison and Jodi tonight to do prep for our gig at Balticon in Baltimore, Maryland at the end of next month. So far it looks as if we'll be doing a concert, round-robin children's concert, a music workshop, and a literary theme filk. I'll also be participating in at least one comics panel.




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